Shiny, curved, and stronger nails without using extensions? That’s the promise of nail overlay, also known as kapping. This strengthening technique is becoming increasingly popular among fans of long-lasting manicures and curved finishes. But how does it actually work? What are its pros and cons? And are there more natural ways to enhance your nails? Here's everything you need to know.
Nail Overlay: Strong, Shiny Nails On Demand
What is nail overlay?
Nail overlay, or kapping, is a technique designed to strengthen natural nails by coating them with a thick base or gel, forming an invisible protective shell that makes them stronger and shinier. This gel, often enriched with strengthening ingredients such as plant-based keratin, wraps around the nail to support healthy growth and improve resistance. While the process may remind you of Gel Polish application, it doesn’t add length: it simply enhances and reinforces the natural nail shape.
Overlay is especially recommended if your nails are weakened by:
- Soft nails that bend at the slightest knock,
- Brittle nails that split and peel,
- Ridged nails that lack shine.
Nail overlay can be a brilliant temporary solution for achieving a smooth, even, well-groomed appearance. The final result looks natural, with mirror shine and that much-loved curved finish!
Natural nails, enhanced and strengthened: that’s the art of overlay.
How is a nail overlay done?
Nail overlay follows a detailed protocol, quite similar to a Gel Polish application:
- It all begins with meticulous nail prep: the natural nail is cleaned and disinfected, cuticles are pushed back, and the surface is gently buffed to ensure perfect adhesion.
- Next comes the application of two coats of strengthening base (UV gel, Gel Polish, or acrylic resin). The nail technician usually applies a thin first coat followed by a thicker second one, for added protection, curve, and durability.
- Finally, curing under a UV lamp sets the product, giving the protective shell its full strength. At this point, you can choose to keep a natural glossy finish or go for a colour or nail art design like a French manicure or polka dots.
For a long-lasting finish, it’s best to get a fill every three to six weeks, depending on how fast your nails grow. This touch-up helps fill the gap between the gel and the natural nail base—and it’s a great opportunity to switch up your colour or style!
Prep your nails before protecting them with a strengthening gel base.
Pros & Cons of Nail Overlay
✅ The Benefits
🛡️ Acts as a protective shield: Overlay protects nails from knocks and daily aggressors. It's ideal for nails that tend to weaken quickly, especially with exposure to water or household products.
🤡 A very natural finish: Since there’s no length added, your nail keeps its shape but gains curve and shine. It’s a great alternative to extensions or false nails.
💅 The perfect-nail effect—instantly: Overlay creates a smooth surface that hides imperfections and makes it easy to apply colour or nail art on top.
🌷 Plant-based ingredients: Quality strengthening bases are enriched with plant-derived actives like botanical keratin, offering extra support for soft or fragile nails.
❌ Things to Consider
⚠️ Product composition: Depending on their origin, UV gels and Gel Polishes may not always comply with regulations and could contain potentially risky ingredients, especially those from outside the EU.
⚰️ Removal can weaken nails: If not done gently—think excessive buffing, scraping, or heavy use of acetone—it can weaken already fragile nails. In that case, a break between overlay sessions is recommended.
⏳ Time and cost: Both application and removal are done in a salon, which means dedicating time and budget over the long term.
How to Strengthen Your Nails Without Damaging Them
While overlay can be a helpful solution for boosting fragile nails, it’s not always the most practical for everyday life—especially if you’re looking for a gentler, more DIY-friendly routine. Good news? There are plant-based alternatives to achieve stronger, more radiant natural nails—no UV gel required. Yes, really! We’ve developed expert treatments tailored to the specific needs of each nail type. Rather than coating the nail, they work both on the surface and deep within its natural structure to restore strength and shine.
An Expert Routine for Soft or Damaged Nails
If your nails lack resilience, a two-week targeted routine can completely change their appearance.
Here’s how to do it:
- Week 1: Apply Keratine Booster 3 times a day to bare nails, letting it absorb fully. With a formula packed with botanical keratin, silicon and biotin, it stimulates keratin production and thickens the nail plate. Then, massage a few drops of Green Oil 1–2 times daily onto nails and their contours to nourish and soften.
- Week 2: Apply a coat of Fortifying Base to bare nails every other day (up to 3 times a week), layering each application—yes, you can build it up! At the same time, use Green Oil 1–2 times a day, massaging it into the nail and surrounding area until fully absorbed.
That’s it: a simple nail-care routine to promote healthy growth while making nails noticeably stronger, smoother, and less prone to breakage.
Say goodbye to soft, damaged nails! Boost your nail strength with our targeted treatment routine.
2-in-1 Treatment Polishes for Busy Days
Short on time for a full treatment routine? Our Active™ treatment polishes are the perfect express solution. With Active Shine, you can strengthen, harden and enhance your nails while giving them a radiant highlighter glow. Active Bright is a brightening polish that fortifies and illuminates nails naturally. And Active Plump delivers an instant dose of hydration and volume with a glossy curved finish that’s impossible to resist.
These vegan, bio-sourced treatment polishes apply in a single step—no base or top coat needed—and dry in the open air, no UV lamp or tricky routine required. They’re just as easy to remove with a gentle nail polish remover. Ideal if you're after a simple, effective, and lasting routine, minus the salon visit!
Enhance and care for your nails in one easy step with Active Shine, Bright and Plump.
In short, nail overlay is a great option for soft, fragile nails thanks to its protective effect and ultra-glossy finish. That said, it requires time, budget, and careful removal. Fortunately, there are other ways to strengthen, smooth and brighten your nails through gentle, effective at-home care using vegan, plant-based products. The choice is yours—go with what suits your lifestyle and your nails best!
