A symbol of power, refinement or a fashion accessory, nail polish has constantly reinvented itself over time. From the first beeswax-based lacquers in ancient China to today’s bio-based nail polishes, its evolution alone tells the story of beauty. Dive into this colourful odyssey, from Antiquity to the present day.
From Antiquity to the 19th century: a symbol of power
Long before it became a beauty statement, nail polish was a true social marker. Across the world and throughout history, nails tell a story of rank, prestige and power.
Painted nails, a privilege of the elite through the centuries
Nearly 3,000 years BCE in China, high-society women were already applying natural lacquers made from egg white, beeswax, gum arabic and impatiens petals. Under the Zhou dynasty, usage was so strictly codified that certain shades, such as black and deep red, were reserved for empresses. Breaking this rule could result in execution. Ouch!
2,000 years BC, the Babylonians coloured their nails with kohl: black for nobles, green for the people. A status manicure, in short, used to distinguish social classes.
In ancient Egypt (1500 BC), queens polished and tinted their nails with henna. It is said that Cleopatra loved reddish-brown nails, while Nefertiti preferred bright ruby red. Nail polish became a true royal attribute.
On the other side of the globe, the Incas of the 15th century also had an eye for detail: they adorned their nails with eagle motifs and divine symbols, true miniature works of art! The first nail art was born long before Instagram!
In Europe, we know that 17th-century ladies, for their part, buffed their nails with chamois leather and coloured ointments.
Two centuries later, in the Victorian era, people relied on home remedies: a soak in lemon juice or vinegar was enough to brighten and shine nails.
The ancestors of nail polish: when nature coloured nails
From the 19th century onwards, there were no solvents or bottles: formulas were 100% handmade. People used:
- Plant pigments (roses, poppies, henna)
- Mineral powders
- Natural resins such as shellac.
The manicure became a way of life: women trimmed, polished and nourished their nails with rich creams such as cold cream (very fashionable at the time) and polishing powders. They also pushed back their cuticles with an orange wood stick, invented in 1830… and still found in our beauty cases today.
From ancient Egypt to the early 20th century, beautiful nails were a luxury reserved for high society.
(@Wikimedia Commons)
The invention of modern nail polish: an American revolution
The history of nail polish enters its modern era in the 20th century with the invention of nail polish as we know it today. And guess what? It all starts in a garage!
The idea that changes everything: from car hoods to colourful nails
In the 1920s, French makeup artist Michelle Ménard drew inspiration from automotive paint to create a durable, glossy lacquer based on nitrocellulose. Yes, you read that right: the same component used to paint cars… and nails! This marked the beginning of a new era: modern nail polish, smooth, colourful and, above all, long-lasting.
A few years later, Charles and Joseph Revson, joined by chemist Charles Lachman, perfected this formula under the now-famous name Revlon. They introduced a major innovation: a creamy, opaque nail polish available in shades matching lipsticks. The lipstick-nail polish duo became the height of glamour.
Nail polish, Hollywood’s star
In the 1950s, nail polish became a fashion accessory. On the big screen, Marilyn Monroe, Rita Hayworth and Lana Turner popularised red nails, synonymous with elegance and sensuality. Advertisements of the time praised “indestructible” polishes that were “as shiny as ruby”. The modern woman now wears nail polish!
Born before the war, nail polish became popular thanks to Hollywood actresses.
(@Revlon, @Wikimedia Commons).
The manicure boom
From the fifties to the 2000s, nail polish became a beauty-case essential. Each decade reinvented the manicure in its own way, with innovations, signature colours and new attitudes:
- 1950s: the rise of iconic, intense and glamorous red. False nails also appeared as cosmetic extensions. Fun fact: they already existed, but for a different purpose—a Chicago dentist came up with the idea to stop people from biting their nails!
- 1960-70s: the trend was for pastel colours and glittery or metallic-effect nail polishes, in keeping with the Flower Power style. Jeff Pink, a Hollywood makeup artist, invented the French Manicure, suitable for every occasion. He answered producers’ request to avoid changing nail polish with every change of outfit for actresses.
- 1980-90s: an explosion of fluorescent colours and nail art, which quickly sparked enthusiasm and took the world by storm. In Asia, for example, the art of decorating nails became a passion, attracting countless followers. Scented nail polishes, decorative nail enhancements, stickers, rhinestones… creativity knew no bounds!
- 2000s: make way for dark nail polishes and chic rock shades. Then there are defining moments: Chanel’s winter 2009 show, where Karl Lagerfeld’s models walked the runway with jade green nail polish on their fingertips. The rules were broken and the palette expanded.
- 2011: a small revolution in manicures with the arrival of semi-permanent nail polish, an ultra-shiny polish that lasts 3 weeks without chipping. A dream come true…
From the 1980s onwards, nail art became all the rage and nail polish colours diversified.
(@look8thenails)
Nail polish reinvents itself in the 21st century
Today, nail polish goes beyond its purely aesthetic function. It has become a reflection of a thoughtful and responsible lifestyle. Formulas are evolving, routines are being reinvented, and manicures are part of a more conscious approach, without ever giving up the pleasure of beautiful colours.
Nail polish in the age of clean beauty
With growing environmental awareness, brands are revisiting the composition of nail polishes. The trend is towards formulas that respect the environment and are free from substances considered harmful to health.
Since 2010, CMR-classified substances (Carcinogenic, Mutagenic, Reprotoxic, in other words toxic to reproduction) have gradually been banned from cosmetics manufactured and sold within the European Union. Ingredients such as formaldehyde, toluene and hydroquinone, classified as CMRs, have disappeared from formulas, along with sensitising molecules such as methacrylate monomers (HEMA and DI-HEMA-TMHDC). Most recently, TPO (Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphosphine Oxide) was banned in September 2025. In 2013, Europe also said no to animal testing for cosmetic products and ingredients intended purely for cosmetic use manufactured in the EU.
“Next-generation” nail polishes emerged with the ambition of combining performance, pleasure and respect for nails. This is the challenge Manucurist took on with its Green™ nail polishes and Green Flash™: offering mostly bio-based formulas in which petrochemical-derived solvents and plasticisers have been replaced with plant-based alternatives such as corn, sugar cane, cassava and cotton. A successful challenge that makes Manucurist a key player in responsible, sustainable beauty.
Cassava, sugar cane, cotton, corn, potato… Next-generation nail polishes favour bio-based ingredients to replace petrochemical-derived components.
Back to minimalism: nude nails make a comeback
After decades of flamboyant manicures and extravagant nail art, natural nails are making a comeback. Trends such as soap nails, bare nails and clean girl nails embody this desire for simplicity and the “less is more” aesthetic: glossy, sheer, perfectly groomed nails with just the right amount of shine. It’s the nude manicure 2.0: subtle and ultra-chic all at once!
A new vision of the manicure
Today, manicures go beyond simply adding colour: they have become a moment of care and relaxation, a ritual for yourself. The 21st century has ushered in a new era of nail polish, favouring bio-based formulas that respect nail health without compromising on style and shine. Care is now at the heart of nail addicts’ concerns. That’s why we developed the Active™ range: bio-based nail polishes, a hybrid of care and make-up, that strengthen and enhance nails at the same time.
Active™ nail polishes let you create an ultra-trendy minimalist manicure while strengthening your nails.
From Babylonian kohl to bio-based formulas, nail polish has travelled through the centuries, adapting to our lifestyles. From a tool of distinction to a symbol of self-expression, it has become a reflection of our times: responsible and confident. And we all know it: nail polish is not just a colour… It’s a way of being in the world, a gesture as ancient as it is modern, as intimate as it is universal.
Sources:
“Your nails, a whole world”, Dr Sophie Goettmann, Actes Sud
History of beauty - Nail polish, Virginie Lamort de Gail, Madmoizelle
