Summer 2025 was an eventful time in the world of nail polish. With the EU ban on TPO in cosmetics taking effect on September 1, many gel polish brands have been forced to reformulate to offer TPO-free alternatives. A headache Manucurist avoided, having eliminated TPO and other questionable ingredients from its formulas long ago. To better understand the situation, here is what TPO is, why it is now banned, and how to spot a TPO-free polish. Let’s dive in!
What is TPO and what is it used for?
What is TPO?
TPO stands for diphenyl (2,4,6-trimethylbenzoyl) phosphine oxide, a photoinitiator commonly used in cosmetics, especially those requiring UV or LED curing such as gels and gel polishes.
The role of TPO in gel polishes and UV gels
TPO is unique in that it enables curing when the polish is placed under a UV or LED lamp. In other words, without TPO or an equivalent, gel polish cannot harden or dry; curing does not take place, and the polish remains liquid. A true nightmare for nail addicts! But what exactly is the issue with TPO?
Why is TPO banned in Europe?
A substance classified as CMR (reprotoxic)
TPO has been on the European health authorities' radar for a long time.
As early as 2014, the SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety) issued an opinion on its safety of use and potential sensitizing effects on the skin.
In 2019, TPO was classified as a CMR substance, a category grouping chemical agents that can, in the medium or long term, have Carcinogenic, Mutagenic, or Reprotoxic effects. It was placed in CMR Category 2, meaning it was “only” suspected of being toxic to human reproduction. Its use was permitted under certain conditions (a maximum concentration of 5%).
In 2025, new scientific studies led European authorities to take action. TPO was reclassified as CMR Category 1B and recognized as a proven toxicant to human reproduction (Regulation (EU) 2025/977, known as "Omnibus VII"). This new status automatically triggered its ban in cosmetic products under the EU Cosmetics Regulation (Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009).
What changes on September 1, 2025
Following the entry into force of the TPO ban across the European Union, it is no longer permitted to:
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place cosmetic products containing TPO on the market,
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make these products available, including to professionals,
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use these products, especially during professional services (polish application, manicures, etc.)
The short-term impact: a possible reduction in available gel polish options, as products containing TPO—whether from European brands or those based outside the EU—can no longer be sold on the European market.
However, such bans always take time to take full effect, and consumers must remain vigilant when buying nail polish. To avoid surprises, check the INCI list on the packaging, which details the exact composition of the product.
So is this the end of gel polish, or the beginning of a new generation of TPO-free polishes?
Is TPO-free gel polish really possible?
Are there alternatives to TPO?
The good news in all of this is that gel polish can indeed be made without TPO. At Manucurist, we’ve never used it! The same goes for other CMR substances and methacrylate monomers (HEMA and Di-HEMA-TMHDC), which we have always excluded from our formulas.
It wasn’t easy and took several years of research to find a substitute for TPO, but we finally did: TPO-L, a safer, more stable photoinitiator than TPO. The difference between the two molecules isn't just that extra letter L. TPO-L is neither classified as a CMR substance nor considered a potential endocrine disruptor—a completely clean ingredient that delivers the same high performance without the risks.
A new generation of high-performance, risk-free polishes
By choosing to formulate polishes free from controversial molecules without waiting for regulations, Manucurist stands out as a pioneering, innovative brand committed to cleaner, more sustainable beauty. With Green Flash™, Manucurist created a new generation of gel polish that makes zero compromises on consumer or professional health, nor on polish performance.
The secret? A vegan formula that is up to 84% bio-sourced and meets strict health requirements, keeping nails healthy while strengthening them thanks to the patented KeraHCE+ technology in the Green Flash™ Vitamin Base Coat. All while delivering everything you expect from a quality gel polish:
🔥 Fast drying under an LED lamp
🌈 Stable, intense color
✨ A strong, high-shine coat of polish
⏱️ Long-lasting wear for up to 12 days
Until now, TPO was a key ingredient in gel polish formulations, and its ban in Europe could have sounded the death knell for this type of polish. But no need to panic: alternatives exist and have already proven their effectiveness. Green Flash™ is the perfect example. Gel polish isn’t going away—it’s reinventing itself for cleaner, safer beauty. To try this routine at home, the Green Flash™ Starter Kit brings together all the essentials for LED lamp application.
