Summer 2025 was eventful in the world of nail polish. Indeed, with the enforcement of the TPO ban in cosmetic products starting September 1st in Europe, many semi-permanent polish brands were forced to revise their formulas to offer TPO-free polishes. A headache that Manucurist avoided, having long excluded TPO and other risky components from its polishes. To better understand the situation, we explain what TPO is, why it is now banned, and how to recognize a TPO-free polish. Let’s go!
What is TPO and what is it used for?
Definition of TPO
TPO stands for diphenyl(2,4,6-trimethylbenzoyl)phosphine oxide, a photo-initiator commonly used in cosmetic products, especially those that need to be polymerized under UV or LED light such as gels and semi-permanent polishes.
Role of TPO in semi-permanent polishes and UV gels
TPO is special because it enables polymerization when the polish is placed under a UV or LED lamp. In other words, without TPO or an equivalent, the semi-permanent polish cannot harden or dry, the curing does not occur, and the polish remains liquid. A real nightmare for nail addicts! But what exactly is the issue with TPO?
Why is TPO banned in Europe?
A CMR-classified component (reprotoxic substance)
TPO has been under scrutiny by European health authorities for a long time.
As early as 2014, the SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety) issued an opinion regarding the safety of its use and the potential sensitizing effects on the skin.
In 2019, TPO was classified among CMR substances, which include chemical agents that may have medium or long-term Carcinogenic, Mutagenic, or Reprotoxic effects. It was placed in CMR category 2, meaning it was “only” suspected of being toxic to human reproduction. Its use was allowed under conditions (maximum concentration of 5%).
But in 2025, new scientific studies prompted European authorities to update the classification. TPO was then moved to CMR category 1B and considered proven toxic to human reproduction (regulation no. 2025/977 known as “Omnibus VII”). This new status automatically triggered its ban in cosmetic products under the European cosmetics regulation (Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009).
What changes on September 1, 2025
Following the enforcement of the TPO ban in European Union countries, it is no longer allowed to:
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market cosmetic products containing TPO,
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make these products available, including to professionals,
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use these products, especially in professional services (polish application, manicure, etc.)
Short-term consequence: a possible reduction in the availability of semi-permanent polishes, as products containing TPO, whether from European or non-EU brands, can no longer be sold on the European market.
However, such a ban always takes time to be fully implemented and consumers must remain vigilant when purchasing their nail polish. To avoid unpleasant surprises, check the INCI list on the packaging, which provides the exact composition of the product.
So is this the end of semi-permanent polish or the beginning of a new generation of TPO-free polishes?
Is semi-permanent polish without TPO possible?
Are there alternatives to TPO?
The good news is that it is indeed possible to do without TPO in semi-permanent polish. At Manucurist, we have never even used it! The same goes for other CMR-classified substances or methacrylate monomers (HEMA and Di-HEMA-TMHDC) which we have always excluded from our formulas.
It wasn’t easy and took several years of research to find a substitute for TPO, but we finally found it: TPO-L, a safer and more stable photo-initiator than TPO. The difference between the two molecules is not just the extra letter L. TPO-L is neither classified as CMR nor considered a potential endocrine disruptor, a perfectly safe ingredient that offers the same performance without the risks.
A new generation of high-performance and risk-free polishes
By choosing to develop polishes free from any controversial molecule, without waiting for regulations, Manucurist stands out as a pioneering and innovative brand committed to more responsible and sustainable beauty. With Green Flash™, Manucurist launched a new generation of semi-permanent polishes that make no compromises, neither on the health of consumers or professionals, nor on polish performance.
The secret? A vegan and bio-sourced formula up to 84%, compliant with health standards, which not only does not damage nails but strengthens them thanks to the patented KeraHCE+ technology contained in the Base Coat Vitaminée Green Flash™. All while ticking the expected properties of a quality semi-permanent polish:
🔥 Fast drying under LED lamp
🌈 Stable and intense color
✨ A solid and shiny polish layer
⏱️ Long tenue polish up to 12 days
TPO was until now a central ingredient in semi-permanent polishes and its ban in Europe could have sounded the death knell for this type of polish. But no need to panic: alternatives exist and have even proven their effectiveness. Green Flash™ is the perfect example. Semi-permanent polish will therefore not disappear but reinvent itself to contribute to the development of healthier and safer beauty. To discover this routine at home, the Green Flash™ starter kit brings together the essentials for LED lamp application.
