Found in most traditional manicure routines, acetone is the most widely used nail polish remover in the world—and yet one of the least understood. We apply it automatically, without fully considering its impact on nail keratin or skin. Between its undeniable effectiveness on gels and semi-permanent polishes on the one hand, and the risk of dryness on the other, the picture is mixed. So it’s time to take stock of this unique solvent: the risks of using it and how to go without it.
What is acetone and what is it used for?
Acetone is an organic solvent from the ketone family, naturally present in the body in small amounts and industrially produced on a large scale. Colourless and with a distinctive smell, it is one of the most effective removers on the beauty market. Its main cosmetic use is nail polish removal, but it is also used in some household products to dissolve, degrease and clean.
Why does acetone dissolve nail polish?
Nail polish is made up of film-forming polymers (nitrocellulose, resins, plasticisers) which, once dry, form a rigid film. Acetone works by breaking the intermolecular bonds of these polymers: it disrupts their structure and makes them soluble, allowing nail polish to be removed in just a few seconds. This is what makes it so effective on the most resistant formulas.
When to use it: classic nail polish, gel, extensions
For classic nail polish, acetone is not essential; a gentle remover may be enough. However, it becomes indispensable to remove semi-permanent polish or gel, whose polymer structure is very dense and impermeable to mild solvents. It is also necessary to remove nail tips and artificial nails made of gel or acrylic, often applied with glues or resins that only acetone can truly soften. Its use should therefore be reserved for situations where gentler alternatives prove insufficient.
Acetone, the most popular product for removing nail polish.
Is acetone dangerous for nails and skin?
Acetone is not classified as a CMR substance (carcinogenic, mutagenic, reprotoxic). When used occasionally and externally, there is no significant absorption through the skin. However, if you use it frequently, its intense drying effect can become a real risk for nails and skin. All the more so if you suffer from chronic skin conditions (such as eczema or psoriasis) or if your nails are already soft or damaged.
The effects of acetone on nails: dryness, structural weakness, breakage
When removing nail polish, acetone also destroys the lipids found in keratin. Without this protective oily film, the nail loses its natural defences and is at risk of serious damage: dehydration and impaired matrix function. Keratin production is altered, and nails then tend to become dull, soft, brittle or ridged. These warning signs indicate that it is urgent to change your manicure routine and give your nails the care they need to restore beautiful, strong, radiant nails.
The effects of acetone on the skin: a risk of irritation?
The same applies to the cuticles, the small pieces of skin surrounding the nail plate. Acetone dissolves the protective hydrolipidic film, causing a feeling of tightness, dryness and sometimes redness, especially for people with sensitive or atopic skin.
How often can acetone use pose a risk?
It’s hard to say, as it depends on the initial condition of the nails and skin. Generally speaking, the more you alternate polish applications and removals without intermediate care, the less able the nail is to regenerate, and the more the risk of chronic brittleness increases.
👉 We often say it: it’s essential to adopt a sustainable manicure routine by using nail-friendly products and incorporating breaks and nail care between polish applications.
Aggressive, frequent polish removal weakens nails and cuticles over time.
With or without acetone, how can you remove your polish or gel without damaging your nails?
How do you use acetone to remove traditional gel or semi-permanent polish?
The most effective and least damaging acetone removal method is to mattify the top layer of gel with a fine-grit file or buffer block, without reaching the natural nail. The goal? To allow the acetone to soak into the polish layers and dissolve them more effectively.
Then soak pieces of cotton in pure acetone and place them on each nail, then wrap the fingertip in aluminium foil to keep it in contact. After ten to fifteen minutes, gently lift off the gel using a wooden stick, without forcing it.
⚠️Do not scrape off residue, as you may damage the keratin layers. If gel residue remains, reapply acetone.
A few simple steps can significantly reduce the impact of acetone:
- Protect the skin around the nails with a rich cream or petroleum jelly before application.
- Work in a well-ventilated area: at high concentrations, acetone vapours can irritate the respiratory tract.
- Do not exceed the recommended application time, as this may worsen dryness without any added benefit.
- Apply a cuticle oil immediately after removal to compensate for lipid loss.
When using acetone, prevent nails and cuticles from drying out.
Gentle acetone-free removers: are they really effective?
Acetone-free removers mainly rely on alternative solvents such as ethyl acetate. Their key benefit: they are less harsh on keratin lipids than acetone, helping to preserve the nail’s flexibility and hydration. Many formulas also include plant oils to offset the drying effect inherent to any solvent.
However, their actual effectiveness depends on the type of polish to be removed:
✅ On classic nail polish without a gel finish, with a slightly longer processing time than with acetone.
❌ On traditional semi-permanent polish, UV gel or acrylic resin.
✅ On bio-based nail polish formulas such as Green™ nail polishes and Green Flash™ gel nail polishes by Manucurist. Thanks to their mostly naturally derived, rather than synthetic, composition, these next-generation nail polishes do away with harsh removal methods such as acetone and filing, which weaken nails.
With Green Flash™, discover the pleasure of peeling off your nail polish.
The Green Flash™ Remover, 96.5% bio-based, acetone-free and enriched with castor oil, gently removes all Manucurist polishes in just 1 minute (10 minutes for Xtrem Flash™ Top Coat), while hydrating the nail plate. The result: a perfectly preserved natural nail, with no signs of damage or dryness.
👉 Discover all Manucurist removers on our dedicated page.
How can you repair nails weakened by acetone?
The care to prioritise for nourishing nails and cuticles
Nails that have undergone repeated acetone polish removals are often dehydrated. The priority is therefore to restore their lipid and moisture balance. A repairing routine combining Base S.O.S. and Masque S.O.S. helps deeply rehydrate and revitalise the nail contours in 2 weeks.
At the beginning of each week, file and buff your nails using a fine-grit nail file and a buffing block. Then apply the S.O.S. Base every 2 days without removing the previous layers. At the end of the week, remove the successive layers with a little gentle remover and apply the S.O.S. Mask before bed, leaving it on overnight. Peel it off the following morning or remove it with a little soapy water if the film does not lift off on its own.
Treatments containing nourishing plant oils, plant keratin, biotin, or vitamins C and E also support the regeneration of nails and cuticles. You can therefore add complementary treatments to your repair routine, such as:
- Green Oil, to be massaged into nails and cuticles every day.
- Kératine Booster, to be applied 1 to 3 times a day for 7 days, allowing it to dry until the product is fully absorbed.
- The Perfecting Concentrate, to apply as needed for intense, continuous hydration.
Acetone is not a harmless product and should be used with care. The key is to adopt the right habits:
👉 use it only when truly necessary, to remove gel or acrylic false nails or traditional gel polish,
👉 not too often to limit its drying effects,
👉 adopt a gentle manicure routine that respects nail health.
