From 1 September 2025, the European Union will ban the use of TPO in cosmetics, particularly in gel polishes. This new regulation is a major step towards more responsible beauty – and a victory for Manucurist, which has always excluded risky substances from its nail polish formulas.
What is TPO and why is it so controversial?
A key ingredient in gel polish
TPO, or Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphosphine Oxide, is a photo-initiator widely used in cosmetics, especially in gel polish formulas. It is the magic ingredient that allows polish to harden under a UV or LED lamp, ensuring fast drying and that hard, resistant finish on the nail – the very feature that made gel polish so popular.
TPO, an effective but not harmless ingredient.
An efficient ingredient, but not without risks
While its chemical properties are valued by the cosmetics industry, TPO has a far less glamorous side. Since 2019, it has been listed in Europe among CMR substances – chemicals that are carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic for reproduction. Until 2025, it was classified as CMR 2, meaning it was only suspected of being toxic to human reproduction, so its use was allowed under strict conditions (with a maximum concentration of 5%).
Towards a European ban in 2025
In May 2025, the European Union reclassified TPO as a CMR 1B substance – now officially recognised as toxic for reproduction (Regulation No. 2025/977, known as “Omnibus VII”). The result? A total ban on TPO in cosmetics from 1 September 2025 (Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009). From this date, it will no longer be possible to:
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Market cosmetic products containing TPO,
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Make these products available, even to professionals
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Use them in professional services (such as manicures and nail applications)
Although not unexpected, this ban is still a powerful victory for Gaëlle Lebrat-Personnaz, founder of Manucurist, who has long fought for non-toxic formulas: This shows that the fight for more responsible beauty that respects people’s health is worthwhile – and that we are right to pursue it. Yes, TPO-free polish exists – and Manucurist is one of the pioneering brands in this field.
Gaëlle Lebrat-Personnaz, CEO and founder of Manucurist.
TPO-free polish: more responsible formulas
How to replace TPO in gel polish?
Finding safe alternatives to risky ingredients has always been a guiding principle for Manucurist. From the very beginning, when developing what would become Green Flash™ LED polish, TPO was excluded from the formula – along with other CMR substances (like toluene, DBP, formaldehyde, hydroquinone) and sensitising molecules such as HEMA and di-HEMA. And this was before these substances were banned or heavily regulated in Europe.
Instead of TPO, our lab selected a safe, high-performance alternative: TPO-L. This photo-initiator is effective, non-toxic, non-CMR, and fully compliant with European regulations. It ensures optimal curing of Green Flash™ under LED lamps, guaranteeing both performance and safety.
Inside the laboratory where Manucurist nail polish formulas are made.
>Green Flash™: the gel polish with no compromises
By choosing Green Flash™, you’re opting for a new-generation polish that delivers a manicure with no risk to your nails – and no compromise on performance. Its commitments include:
🌿 A bio-sourced formula up to 84%: replacing as many synthetic chemicals as possible with plant-based alternatives for a more biodegradable composition that respects the nail.
🐶 Vegan and cruelty-free: like all Manucurist products, Green Flash™ contains no animal-derived ingredients and is certified by The Vegan Society.
💅 Quick and safe application and removal: Green Flash™ proves that a bio-sourced polish can still be fluid, flexible and fast-drying under an LED lamp. Removal is just as easy – thanks to our gentle Green Flash™ Remover, which works in 1 minute without damaging nails.
⏳ Up to 12 days of flawless wear: thanks to patented KeraHCE+ technology in the Vitaminised Base Coat which strengthens nails with each application and extends wear time.
At Manucurist, we are constantly innovating to create products that combine safety and quality. Transparency in our formulas is essential to maintaining the trust placed in us by thousands of consumers and professionals around the world. And we intend to keep it that way for a long time to come!
